First, I want to give a big shout-out to my friend Robin Blackburn who will be putting 9 months of training to good use this weekend competing in the IM Kentucky. For all of us who Father Time has robbed of that ability, get some for us too Robin!
Second, I wanted to give an update on my tire experiments after a few hundred miles. I have settled on Michelin again, because the sidewalls are just so much more robust than Conti tires, even the Gatorskin. I am now running my standard, long time favorite Pro3 Race 23mm tires in front, and Michelin Pro Optimum 25mm in the rear after skidding through 2 Pro3 Races in back in 6 weeks after single 10-15 ft skids.
The Pro Optimum don't roll quite as well as the Pro3 Race, but I can't notice any difference in wind drag. I'm not sure the Optimum roll any slower than a Pro3 25mm would either. What I get in return is a tougher tire (I did have a thorn flat, but the thorn forests go on for a thousand yards in places these days, and those dry thorns are hella hard) that is very hard to skid, AND stays hooked up extremely well in turns.
We have a lot of sharp hairpin turns along the SE side of Lake Natomas, and I am starting to trust the Pro Optimum tire now to stay hooked up even over light sand and gravel. The result is less braking and faster overall lap times. The ride is also better over large road cracks and medium stones, and pinch flats less likely. They also don't leak down as fast, having more internal volume than 23mm tires do.
The Gatorskin AKA Ultra Gatorskin tire isn't as bad as my 1st impression, because once the rather extensive pips wore off the crown the tire settled down a lot and stopped hopping all over the trail and looking for reasons to break loose in turns. It might have more puncture resistance than the Pro Optimum too, but the sidewalls are just too fragile to be safe when riding long distances. I don't want to spend 2-3 hours riding home praying some make-shift boot is going to hold. The Optimum's ride is much less harsh, and much more skid resistant.
The Pro3 Optimum tires are a dedicated front and back tire set, which Michelin claims will wear about the same number of miles. I've been so happy with the rear tire, I am tempted to try the front tire too now. At 25mm It might push more wind, a big consideration up front (irrelevant in back), but I am thinking it will likely have a softer ride, and I am on the cusp of being able to ride 100% of the time on the hoods now, after going to carbon bars, and getting the seat dialed in.
-----
I had an epiphany when looking for some detail on carbohydrate, and then water digestion. It's pretty clear that your body can absorb a maxed out carb-water mixture, like Gatorade's 6% solution, faster than it can digest the carbs in this mixture on hot days. This is because both the large intestine, and the small intestine can digest water, but only the small intestine is capable of digesting carbs.
No matter what the source of carbs, when the mix of carbs and water in the small intestine exceeds some threshold level, the mix, carbs and all, is swept into your large intestine where the remainder of the water is absorbed very efficiently. Unfortunately, the undigested carbs can no longer be digested by you, but are instead fermented by bacteria in your large intestine (colon). The required intestinal micro-structure, nor amylase to break down carbs, are anywhere to be found in your colon. The bacteria's fermentation creates the gas and bloating we all know and hate.
Even with your entire GI track working at max capacity, your ability to sweat still exceeds your digestion rate. If this disparity persists, your body will take water from inter-cellular, intra-cellular, and finally, blood, to make up the difference.
As your body pulls water out of your blood, reducing blood volume, it puts a tremendous strain on your heart and cardio system to maintain adequate blood pressure. At some point near death, your body will attempt prevent unconsciousness by closing off your capillaries to maintain blood pressure, causing your skin to go dry and your core temps to soar. This condition is known as heat stroke.
To prevent internal organ damage, and even death, you must cool the body in a way that does NOT depend on sweating. Immersion in water, and ingesting cold water is about as good as it gets. Having someone hose you down until your body temp is below 100F is great, pouring water down your back and over your head good, and/or a sock full of ice around your neck and between your legs a potential life saver. Rehydrate as rapidly as possible by ingesting huge quantities of sodium and water. It's impossible for you to absorb water without sodium. Manage accordingly.
Nunn and water, especially distilled water, is an excellent electrolyte protocol. Distilled water, having zero osmotic pressure, will support the maximum rate of sodium and water digestion - the sodium absorption required to maintain an isotonic electrolyte balance as new water is absorbed into the bloodstream.
Therefore, the limitation on athletic performance on hot days is neither muscle endurance, VO2max, forestalling glycogen depletion, nor even electrolyte management, but your ability to digest water fast enough to keep up with requirements for sweating sufficient to keep your core body temps under control while avoiding dehydration.
All of this is again raising the question in my mind as to whether synthetic fibers, which transport, but do not absorb water, are a major contributor to dehydration on hot days. Cotton and/or linen blends may well manage available digested water more effectively.
This speculation is informed by many studies that show that while men sweat more than women, women are less susceptible to dehydration and heat stroke on endurance events precisely because they sweat less.
Showing posts with label Ultra Gagtorskins. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ultra Gagtorskins. Show all posts
Friday, August 26, 2011
Friday, August 5, 2011
Michelin vs Conti Tires
Tired of twice ruining a Pro3 Race Michelin tire on the back wheel from a short skid avoiding a clueless pedestrian on the ARPT (We need a new rule making it legal to Tazer clueless peds who walk 4-5 abreast across the Sunrise foot bridge. It's a bridge, not your living room!) I decided it was time to stop running the same tire out back as up front. After all, they do completely different jobs.
I started by removing the Pro3 Race from the front and mounting a Conti GP4000s in front, and UltraGatorskin in back. (now renamed just Gatorskin). It seemed like a good place to apply sticky and tough respectively.
I flatted about 2 blocks from home when the GP4000s blew completely off the rim on one side. After a little head-scratching, I think that's because Conti tires, and especially the GP4000s, are kind of greasy when new. A tip about mounting new tires. Rub the sidewalls around on a dusty carpet or use some talc to mop up some of the oil.
A couple of days later, while doing routine maintenance, I happened to be looking at the rim and noticed the sidewall of the GP4000s was punctured, and the tube was coming through in a half-dozen places. I'm also disturbed that the GP4000s tires have no structure. They look like a sausage, or balloon, with no discernible sidewall or crown shape. They also turned out to be pretty bouncy at pressure, and gave a harsher, and less predictable ride than my Pro3 Race had. I returned them to Performance Bike Shop for a refund.
Remounting the Pro3 Race in front, I rode with that in front and the Gatorskins (folding, Kevlar bead, of course) in back. The Gatorskins were incredibly harsh, very twitchy, and when rolling over small twigs, pebbles, or cracks caused by erupting roots under the ARPT asphalt, they hopped all over the place. It really killed my speed coming home on the SE side of Lake Natoma, which has lots of twisting, hilly turns. I just didn't trust that I could lean into a turn and know where I'd come out of it with the back end hopping all over the place.
I've put about 150 miles on the Gatorskins now, and after the center dipples wore off, AND I let the pressure leak down to 80 psi, they are reasonably stable, but obviously, at that pressure they are a bit of a drag on performance. While, perhaps, a little tougher than the GP4000s sidewalls, the Gatorskin sidewalls don't inspire much confidence either. The tread seems pretty stout, but the sidewalls are thin and don't seem to have anything offering sidewall protection comparable to the Pro3 Race - which I've flatted on 6-8 times on crushed rock without issue.
I just got through mounting a new Pro3 Race on the front, and a Michelin Krylion on the back. I also have a new Pro Optimum rear tire. They only come in 25mm, but are a set with a dedicated rear and front tire. I was able to buy the rear separately, but having only one tube that will fit a 25mm, I decided to try the Krylion first.
One of the riders at SBHs claims to get ~ 3,700 miles on the rear and 6,700 up front with the Krylions, so I'm really hoping the Krylion in back and Pro3 Race in front will make an excellent combo, well matched for mileage. (It appears Michelin hasn't decided how to spell Krylion - or Krylon - who knows)
At this early juncture I have only one observation. If you're riding Conti tires, there's a much more compliant, supple ride, with better grip and sidewall protection waiting for you on a Michelin tire.
UPDATE: 8/5/2011
Michelin Krylion tires on the back roll a little slower than the Pro3 Race, and about the same as Gatorskins at full pressure, but without the lumber-wagon ride at full pressure. Feel is like the Gatorskins at around 85psi, but impressively stable, even while still being broken in. They also went on the rim easier than the Pro3 Race, as Michelin continues to tighten up the bead on the Pro3 based on the last 3 sets I've used.
Krylions are a tad bit harsher ride than the Pro3 Race, but not objectionable. Fairly supple, they ballistically ejected a stone to the side of the road when I rolled over it at ~ 25mph, but the back wheel stayed pretty well planted. They are narrower than the Gatorskins, and slice through the wind better. Both the Krylion and Pro3 Race are exactly 23mm by my digital caliper. Both were run at 115psi tonight.
I've also become aware that when riding in aerobars, tires that guarantee you a sure line when you initiate a turn are much more important. You just don't have the margin for error in aerobars that you do riding up the blocks. You also don't want blowouts or pinch-flats in front, and with a lot less weight on the rear tire, it has to be supple or it's going to be moving around all over the place, which is completely unnerving.
I'm going to do one more ride on the Krylions, and then try the Pro Optimum. I just have a hunch they are going to feel a lot like the Pro3 Race tire, but with just a tiny bit more wind drag at high speeds. I read an online review of a guy who put the Optimums on his TT bike and beat his prior 40km time by 3 minutes. Part of that may have been improved training, but he didn't think the Optimums slowed him down at all. We shall see.
I started by removing the Pro3 Race from the front and mounting a Conti GP4000s in front, and UltraGatorskin in back. (now renamed just Gatorskin). It seemed like a good place to apply sticky and tough respectively.
I flatted about 2 blocks from home when the GP4000s blew completely off the rim on one side. After a little head-scratching, I think that's because Conti tires, and especially the GP4000s, are kind of greasy when new. A tip about mounting new tires. Rub the sidewalls around on a dusty carpet or use some talc to mop up some of the oil.
A couple of days later, while doing routine maintenance, I happened to be looking at the rim and noticed the sidewall of the GP4000s was punctured, and the tube was coming through in a half-dozen places. I'm also disturbed that the GP4000s tires have no structure. They look like a sausage, or balloon, with no discernible sidewall or crown shape. They also turned out to be pretty bouncy at pressure, and gave a harsher, and less predictable ride than my Pro3 Race had. I returned them to Performance Bike Shop for a refund.
Remounting the Pro3 Race in front, I rode with that in front and the Gatorskins (folding, Kevlar bead, of course) in back. The Gatorskins were incredibly harsh, very twitchy, and when rolling over small twigs, pebbles, or cracks caused by erupting roots under the ARPT asphalt, they hopped all over the place. It really killed my speed coming home on the SE side of Lake Natoma, which has lots of twisting, hilly turns. I just didn't trust that I could lean into a turn and know where I'd come out of it with the back end hopping all over the place.
I've put about 150 miles on the Gatorskins now, and after the center dipples wore off, AND I let the pressure leak down to 80 psi, they are reasonably stable, but obviously, at that pressure they are a bit of a drag on performance. While, perhaps, a little tougher than the GP4000s sidewalls, the Gatorskin sidewalls don't inspire much confidence either. The tread seems pretty stout, but the sidewalls are thin and don't seem to have anything offering sidewall protection comparable to the Pro3 Race - which I've flatted on 6-8 times on crushed rock without issue.
I just got through mounting a new Pro3 Race on the front, and a Michelin Krylion on the back. I also have a new Pro Optimum rear tire. They only come in 25mm, but are a set with a dedicated rear and front tire. I was able to buy the rear separately, but having only one tube that will fit a 25mm, I decided to try the Krylion first.
One of the riders at SBHs claims to get ~ 3,700 miles on the rear and 6,700 up front with the Krylions, so I'm really hoping the Krylion in back and Pro3 Race in front will make an excellent combo, well matched for mileage. (It appears Michelin hasn't decided how to spell Krylion - or Krylon - who knows)
At this early juncture I have only one observation. If you're riding Conti tires, there's a much more compliant, supple ride, with better grip and sidewall protection waiting for you on a Michelin tire.
UPDATE: 8/5/2011
Michelin Krylion tires on the back roll a little slower than the Pro3 Race, and about the same as Gatorskins at full pressure, but without the lumber-wagon ride at full pressure. Feel is like the Gatorskins at around 85psi, but impressively stable, even while still being broken in. They also went on the rim easier than the Pro3 Race, as Michelin continues to tighten up the bead on the Pro3 based on the last 3 sets I've used.
Krylions are a tad bit harsher ride than the Pro3 Race, but not objectionable. Fairly supple, they ballistically ejected a stone to the side of the road when I rolled over it at ~ 25mph, but the back wheel stayed pretty well planted. They are narrower than the Gatorskins, and slice through the wind better. Both the Krylion and Pro3 Race are exactly 23mm by my digital caliper. Both were run at 115psi tonight.
I've also become aware that when riding in aerobars, tires that guarantee you a sure line when you initiate a turn are much more important. You just don't have the margin for error in aerobars that you do riding up the blocks. You also don't want blowouts or pinch-flats in front, and with a lot less weight on the rear tire, it has to be supple or it's going to be moving around all over the place, which is completely unnerving.
I'm going to do one more ride on the Krylions, and then try the Pro Optimum. I just have a hunch they are going to feel a lot like the Pro3 Race tire, but with just a tiny bit more wind drag at high speeds. I read an online review of a guy who put the Optimums on his TT bike and beat his prior 40km time by 3 minutes. Part of that may have been improved training, but he didn't think the Optimums slowed him down at all. We shall see.
Monday, April 4, 2011
Techie Tuesdays - Tougher Tires
Yeah, say that 3 times fast! :-O
When at Bicycles Plus, reaping my 25% discount on the new Romin SL seat, I thought I'd check out their selection of Continental Tires. I was looking for the Ultra Gatorskins, as I had used those on my mtb as road tires before I got my road bike, and liked them a lot. A few friends who bike to work also like them for their toughness. I found an intriguing new tire that is lighter, and promises to be at least as tough - the Gator Hardshell. This from the mfg...
OK, the GP 4000s looks like a great tire, and for Tri riders the GP4000 700x20 in black with Chili rubber and Vectran at 185gr should be of interest, but I had long training miles and double centuries in mind, so was looking at the weight and suppleness of tougher tires. I am wondering though, why Conti didn't use their top Vectran puncture protection on the Hardshell, instead of Poly-X?
I also checked out the Attack/Force front and rear tire combo. An interesting asymmetric approach where the front tire is 22mm and the rear 24mm, and each case and tread design is tailored to turn and push respectively. With the front tire at 195gr and the rear 205gr, they average 200gr. Again, Chili and Vectran.
Also of interest, Specialized has come out with an Armadillo Elite that weighs only 280gr - much less than the indestructible Armadillo at 405gr. I have refused to consider the latter, as they ride like a lumber wagon. Dead feel, and plodding slow, they are overkill for all but tandems and urban assault bikes. At 280gr, the Elites are about the same weight as the Gator Hardshell..
So, looking at the specs, it looks like to get a LOT of extra protection, you only need to add 40-80gr. Remember this range, as it will star in this show.
Mountain bikers have been migrating to tubeless tires for years now, and for good reason. Those giant inner tubes can weigh as much as 300gr, with more typical weights being 200-250gr. That's a lot of weight just to hold 30psi of pressure, add nothing to the sidewall stiffness, puncture protection, tread, or durability. By using that weight to build a more supple, stronger, tougher tire with better grip, that lasts longer, they make much better use of that weight.
Guess what? Stan's NoTubes, the leader in mtb tubeless systems, has now come out with a line of road wheels and rims, along with Hutchinson Tires (and many more starting this year). At 350gr, the rims are 90gr lighter than the standard bearer, Mavic Open Pros measured (not claimed) weight.
The tires are between 70 and 120gr heavier, but when you subtract 75-125gr for no tube, you can actually be ahead of the game, have a much tougher tire, AND superior road feel. Add the 90gr savings from the ZTR Alpha rims, and you are definitely ahead of the game.
You don't have to build your own wheels either. Stan's is selling handbuilt wheels weighing as little as 1200gr a pair for $1,100.00. I'm not a fan of American Classic hubs, in part, because they posture as being American, when in fact, they are made in Taiwan, but mostly because I don't like the design of the rear hub.
I would build on DT Swiss 240 or Chris King's new R45 hubs with low spoke count drillings, and use DT AeroLite spokes to take advantage of these rims. R45s are super light, support radial spoking, are made in Portland, Ore, excellent quality, and great warranty.
I'm a big fan of finding a good local wheel builder, and using him/her for all of your wheels. Mine is Eddy at MadCat Bikes on Marconi. They can tailor wheels to your needs in ways impossible for factory builders. A good wheelbuilder you can communicate with is as valuable as a good dentist. (these flanges are sized to allow building with a single spoke length, saving you money)
In part, this post came about in response to thinking about problems friends are having with equipment riding double Centuries and Brevets. Flats are a serious problem, and Stan's NoTubes Tubeless road wheels are here to stay, and will eventually take the industry by storm. It's about time!
PS: 7/21/2011
It turns out that Michelin makes an asymmetrical tire set for the front and rear that is targeted specifically at long mileage riders. It's called the Pro3 Optimum. I don't want to run a 25mm in front, and they only come in 25mm, but for the back, a tire that is designed to last as long as a 25mm front tire would be fantastic. They are sold separately online, so I think I'll give this a try.
When at Bicycles Plus, reaping my 25% discount on the new Romin SL seat, I thought I'd check out their selection of Continental Tires. I was looking for the Ultra Gatorskins, as I had used those on my mtb as road tires before I got my road bike, and liked them a lot. A few friends who bike to work also like them for their toughness. I found an intriguing new tire that is lighter, and promises to be at least as tough - the Gator Hardshell. This from the mfg...
After extensive market research, feedback from commuters all over the world showed us that a new type of tyre was in demand. Our Gatorskin race bike tyre had filled a gap for hardcore commuters but they wanted more; MORE casing; MORE breaker; MORE protection...It provides a lot of extra protection (at least going by the specs), and weighs only 45 grams more than the GP 4000s - the latest version of this staple road tire featuring Black Chili rubber compound with googlephonic moonrock turbonanontubes.
Taking the Gatorskin as our base, we've added a third Polyamide layer in the sidewall to make a unique 3-ply casing for the Gator Hardshell.
We've also added a wider Poly-X anti puncture breaker belt under the tread which extends down into the shoulder area for wider coverage.
Add this to the Duraskin anti-tear mesh on the outside of the casing and you are presented with a tougher commuter which is also fast and is available in 700x23 up to 28 and 27 x 1 1/4 from January 2010.
OK, the GP 4000s looks like a great tire, and for Tri riders the GP4000 700x20 in black with Chili rubber and Vectran at 185gr should be of interest, but I had long training miles and double centuries in mind, so was looking at the weight and suppleness of tougher tires. I am wondering though, why Conti didn't use their top Vectran puncture protection on the Hardshell, instead of Poly-X?
I also checked out the Attack/Force front and rear tire combo. An interesting asymmetric approach where the front tire is 22mm and the rear 24mm, and each case and tread design is tailored to turn and push respectively. With the front tire at 195gr and the rear 205gr, they average 200gr. Again, Chili and Vectran.
Also of interest, Specialized has come out with an Armadillo Elite that weighs only 280gr - much less than the indestructible Armadillo at 405gr. I have refused to consider the latter, as they ride like a lumber wagon. Dead feel, and plodding slow, they are overkill for all but tandems and urban assault bikes. At 280gr, the Elites are about the same weight as the Gator Hardshell..
So, looking at the specs, it looks like to get a LOT of extra protection, you only need to add 40-80gr. Remember this range, as it will star in this show.
Mountain bikers have been migrating to tubeless tires for years now, and for good reason. Those giant inner tubes can weigh as much as 300gr, with more typical weights being 200-250gr. That's a lot of weight just to hold 30psi of pressure, add nothing to the sidewall stiffness, puncture protection, tread, or durability. By using that weight to build a more supple, stronger, tougher tire with better grip, that lasts longer, they make much better use of that weight.
Guess what? Stan's NoTubes, the leader in mtb tubeless systems, has now come out with a line of road wheels and rims, along with Hutchinson Tires (and many more starting this year). At 350gr, the rims are 90gr lighter than the standard bearer, Mavic Open Pros measured (not claimed) weight.
The tires are between 70 and 120gr heavier, but when you subtract 75-125gr for no tube, you can actually be ahead of the game, have a much tougher tire, AND superior road feel. Add the 90gr savings from the ZTR Alpha rims, and you are definitely ahead of the game.
You don't have to build your own wheels either. Stan's is selling handbuilt wheels weighing as little as 1200gr a pair for $1,100.00. I'm not a fan of American Classic hubs, in part, because they posture as being American, when in fact, they are made in Taiwan, but mostly because I don't like the design of the rear hub.
 |
| Chris King's gorgeous R45 rear hub - Made in America |
I would build on DT Swiss 240 or Chris King's new R45 hubs with low spoke count drillings, and use DT AeroLite spokes to take advantage of these rims. R45s are super light, support radial spoking, are made in Portland, Ore, excellent quality, and great warranty.
I'm a big fan of finding a good local wheel builder, and using him/her for all of your wheels. Mine is Eddy at MadCat Bikes on Marconi. They can tailor wheels to your needs in ways impossible for factory builders. A good wheelbuilder you can communicate with is as valuable as a good dentist. (these flanges are sized to allow building with a single spoke length, saving you money)
In part, this post came about in response to thinking about problems friends are having with equipment riding double Centuries and Brevets. Flats are a serious problem, and Stan's NoTubes Tubeless road wheels are here to stay, and will eventually take the industry by storm. It's about time!
PS: 7/21/2011
It turns out that Michelin makes an asymmetrical tire set for the front and rear that is targeted specifically at long mileage riders. It's called the Pro3 Optimum. I don't want to run a 25mm in front, and they only come in 25mm, but for the back, a tire that is designed to last as long as a 25mm front tire would be fantastic. They are sold separately online, so I think I'll give this a try.
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