Wordless Wednesday

I've been riding in some pretty cold, and at times, dreary conditions, so I'm sure many are wondering why I bother. In part it's because I see people 20 yrs older than I am having to give up their mobility, and that prospect urges me on. In part, it's because to control BP I have to ride on a regular schedule. In part it's the fun of meeting the unique challenges attendant with riding in the cold, but mostly, it's because it's quiet, peaceful, and beautiful - even gorgeous - out there. Here's a sample of what I get to take in almost every day out there riding on the ARPT.

Techie Tuesday: The Limits of Layering

I've come to really like chocolate. It has a rich, creamy, earthy taste, is a tremendous antioxidant, lowers your blood pressure, and makes pretty brain chemistry - but it's no substitute for sex. In the same way, there are many things to love about layering, but it's no substitute for warm, heavy clothing when you're out in the cold, and need it bad.

Reason enough to ride in the cold

Layering's strength is flexibility, and where temps and power changes are extreme, it's the dominate consideration. The drawback is bunching, overlapping layers at the waist, legs, arms, stowage for items peeled off, and total system protection levels. Arm and leg warmers you can fold up and stow in shells are perfect for early rides that start in the cold, or late day rides that finish in the cold - provided 2 layers and shells can provided enough protection.

It got down to 22 degrees here the other night, and riding the next day temps dropped from 52 to 40 in half an hour, with the bulk of the ride done at 38-40 degrees. That's well beyond a LS jersey, and arm and leg warmers with knee socks and shoe covers. Even with a BMI of 28, that's beyond 2 layers of vest shells too. It's also too cold for a micro-fleece balaclavas. Time to bring out the big guns!

Industrial strength head protection. The Barrier fabric around the face is not just wind-resistant, it's air-tight. You can't blow through it no matter how red-faced you're willing to get.

Barrier up front to prevent wind-induced brain-freeze, PRO thermal fabric behind for max insulation. Wear over clear glasses stems to keep the wind out from under the balaclava.

3 lenses in the box. Go with the clear. Great coverage, sheds winds well, and seals well against the PI headbands. Cleverly, the frame is cut away on the outside right above your pupils to keep from blocking your view when down in the drops (or aerobars)

Mountain Hardwear  Super Power 1/2 Zip Fleece. Polartec® PowerDry® XDye Fleece - 336 grams H-E-A-V-Y

Nice reflective details on the shoulders - shoulders that will keep yours warm

Marmot Powerstretch fleece is 200 weight powerstretch all the way through. Mine's labelled REI, and has neck fleece thick enough to keep yours from freezing. 227 grams. 

The PI Barrier Headband keeps your clear glasses in place without letting air under the PI Barrier Balaclava. Still better  if PI would put stem holes in their Balaclava, but as it is, the extra protection is a nice bonus to this work-around.

The Marmot Powerstretch fleece is a THICK base layer, and has a very thick collar.  No back pockets makes it much easier to tuck into tights, and a single base layer wicks much better than 2 thinner, unconnected layers. If it gets any colder, I'll have to spring for the Mountain Hardwear SuperPower fleece with glove-enveloping sleeves.

PI Barrier Convertible Vest providing wind protection, and enough venting to keep you dry inside.

If it had arrived in time, I would have worn my new PI Barrier Vest under the convertible one. The inner shell layer, zipped down 6-8 inches provides protection on the shoulders, while acting as a diffuser to vent without cold-spots.

High-Viz wind-proof, water-resistant

I ordered the vest a size larger, in part so I can stack the vests, and in part to leave room for my Columbia Ballistic II Fleece Jacket, which provides more insulation, and wind protection too.

Perfect outer layer, or middle layer with vest over it. leaving pit zips open to breathe. Mine's 6 yrs old and in perfect condition.

It seals out the wind, but with pit zips and a vest, you can still dump a lot of heat when climbing or if the day warms up. Hand pockets and another Napoleon pocket help store leg warmers and cell phones if the day warms up after an early start
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PS:  It appears that Columbia has changed the pit zips to under-arm vents. Since the new under-arm venting would be entirely covered by a vest, the jacket is no longer a good layering piece. It is still a good outer layer, but be sure to buy a color with good visibility for use in that role.

Techie Tuesday: Michelin vs Conti Update

I did this review back in August, and since then have settled on Michelin Pro 3 Race in front, and Michelin Pro Optimum in back. Being of German heritage, I was expecting Conti to really impress. Instead they were a huge disappointment. The Optimum tires, by contrast, continue to impress me, and it's hard for me to imagine how the rear version could be improved on. It's as close to perfection in back as the Pro 3 Race is in front.

My search for a better rear tire was launched by my skidding through, and ruining, a brand new Pro 3 Race in back - the 2nd in about 1 month's time - so I am pleased to report that the Optimum(rear) is almost impossible to skid, and seems pretty impervious to tire cap wear on the rare occasion when it happens. The tire is just crazy sticky, and will actually reintroduce you to your back brake.

Surprisingly, since the rear tire is optimized for braking and driving wear, as well as bearing the extra weight of riders in upright positions, the tire is very stable and sticky in turns. This is probably due to the 25mm size, which is the only size it comes in. In technical conditions, and especially with sand, stones, small twigs, or leaves going through the many tight turns of the ARPT, the back wheel stays planted so much better I can carry more speed through the turn, so the 25mm size makes me faster. Instead of hopping all over the place, it just sucks up the debris and keeps you locked into your line.

The Gatorskins are so harsh in comparison, that you have to run them below 80psi to match the supple ride of the Pro Optimum(rear) at 110psi. (the pressure limit) The larger, 25mm tire holds more air, and this means it goes flat sitting around the house much slower. Rolling resistance is not as pressure sensitive either. I especially liked this on the one occasion I had a flat, as my little hand pump has a hard time going beyond 80psi. (the reason I will never run Vredestein tires)

My concern with the 25mm width, was wind and rolling resistance. In the rear, at least, I cannot detect any additional wind drag, and the rolling resistance is either the same, or on old, rough chip-seal roads, less. The bigger tire just floats over pebbly surfaces better. I haven't tried the Optimum(front), but suspect it would offer a smoother ride, better grip and more wind drag than the Pro 3 Race. I think Michelin should conduct and publish tests to make this determination. It would help them sell sets instead of just rear Optimum tires.

If I do the Davis Double this year, it will be on an Optimum(front) tire, as the bigger tires just do a better job of sucking up road vibrations, and I'd expect the Optimum to offer a little more puncture resistance, just because there is less surface pressure on any given surface point on larger tires.  The Pro Optimum are in Michelin's top of the line Pro series, so they give you the best possible performance. They're the perfect Century tire.

I have only had 1 flat on the Optimum(rear), and that was after goat-heads, thorns, and broken glass all coming at me in a single 3-mile section. I feel very confident the Optimum(rear) are as puncture resistant as Gatorskins, and in every other way, far superior.

I've never given it much thought before, but I think this tire helps reduce rear tire slippage, especially when climbing steep grades. (you have to reset your cyclocomputer for the larger diameter) Even after resetting my cyclocomputer, my rides are still just a bit shorter because of reduced slippage. This is most noticeable when really flying down the bike trail, pushing 300+ watts through turns, or just flat out on straightaways. It's worth about a half a tooth on the rear cassette.

The only downside I've seen to the larger diameter is some pitting on my SRAM Force rear brake because the tire surface is much closer to the brake's bridge area in the middle. I don't blame Michelin for this, as it's a SRAM QA problem. The clear plastic protection film on the brake just wore off under constant sand spray and cleaning with Turtle Wax car shampoo.

I have ~ 1,500 miles on the Optimum(rear) and it has a definite flat spot on the tread cap, but it hasn't impaired the tire's performance in any way. I'm guessing it will go 2,500 miles, and wear in lock-step with the Pro 3 Race up front. That feature alone is worth switching tires for. For me, the two best features, in order, are the phenomenal braking grip, and planted-like-glued stability in turns.

Techie Tuesday: Optimal Lighting for Cycling Safety

A couple of years ago I put some ideas together about what a good lighting system should do for cyclists. That work I called G.I.T. Lit. It doesn't describe a lighting system, but rather, the criteria any good lighting system has to meet. It's a meta-level lighting RX.

Over the last 3-4 months I've had occasion to work out the details of a real-world system I think satisfies these requirements, because of the way motorists respond to it, and that's the only criteria that counts. This 5-point lighting system will allow you to ride a road bike in urban or rural environments, at up to 25mph solo, without issue - faster if riding in a pace-line.

To understand better why 5 lights are needed, check out this YouTube video that demonstrates the eye's blindspot, the way the brain attempts to work around it, and keep this in mind when maneuvering in traffic at night. You have to give motorists the tools they need to be a good partner in safety.

1st, and most obvious, is the handlebar headlight, which is the foundation for any good lighting system. This light has to light the road far enough ahead so you don't overrun your headlights, even during club sprints.

Its beam must also be wide enough to light both sides of a bike trail, pick up garbage cans left in bicycle lanes, and light both white lines on common 2-lane roads. It's also crucial to pick up the glowing eyes of deer and other large game in time to avoid hitting them. They're completely unpredictable, so hitting the brakes is the best defense.

The primary headlight should have several power settings, so light can be maximized where needed, and minimized when battery life  becomes important, or riding in pace-lines at night. It should also have a flash or strobe mode, critical when cycling just before sunset, or just after sunrise, when motorists are looking into the sun. Motorists behind you will also notice the flash of reflective signs, strobing in your headlight, up to a mile ahead at night.

The MagicShine 900 lumen lights meet these requirements, especially with a special wide lens I've been using. It's also proving very reliable, which is critically important for primary lighting like this. It's reasonably priced, and the separate lighthead is light enough to carry a spare needed. It allows many battery pack options, with many different mountings, and allows you to swap out a fresh pack quickly and easily.

If it's not 1,000+ lumens, or very close, you're just wasting your money, as those are "be seen", not "see" lights. They're dangerous, and motorists hate them because they're dangerous - because it's too much sustained workload, coming at them too fast. It's their opinion that counts, because your safety depends on them being able to notice, identify and track you quickly, and easily. (G.I.T lit) When they're happy, waving, honking and giving you the thumbs up, you have a great system. Until then, keep improving your lighting.

Any lighting is better than no lighting, but you're being foolish taking these kinds of risks when you can get a 900 lumen MagicShine for $90 from Amazon. I now have 2 full systems and a spare lighthead, and all of that cost me less than $250 delivered to my door. Have you priced a trip to the ER lately?

2nd, you need a helmet headlight with most of the same features. You need a helmet headlight to see through turns, up and down hills, and to "flash" motorists poking out of driveways, intersections, or looking into the sun. It goes where you're looking, not where your bike is pointing. The more twisty and hilly the road, the more critical this 2nd white light becomes. It's also a great "good citizen" light on night club rides, where it's used to light obstacles, signs, and riders under threat, whose clothing comes alive when bathed by bright light.

Helmet lighting is particularly important in getting noticed by drivers of high-profile vehicles, like SUVs, trucks, and heavy equipment. Because the drivers are sitting up so high, they can, will, and do look right over the top of bike mounted lighting. Sitting up and looking right at them until they respond is the only way to stay safe.

Watch for brake lights. That's the response that tells you the motorist is paying attention, and nothing short of that. My headlight has enough back-scatter to light the back of my gloves, and PI is now selling neon green Cyclone gloves. Sometimes waving your hand will get someone's attention when all else fails.

3rd, you need a powerful, flashing rear light that motorists can pick up from a long way off. This is the Grab light for motorists approaching from behind. To make this light as bright as possible, the light is focused into a very narrow beam, and it gets noticed because flashing lights work with the very primitive part of the brain, going all the way back to dinosaurs, that sense changes first and foremost. The Planet Bike Super Blinky Turbo is excellent here.

4th, you need a similar light, facing backwards, that does NOT flash, but is in Constant mode. This light's purpose is to make Tracking easy. Flashing, and even strobing lights, are almost impossible to track in the complexity of urban light-scapes. Even in my 20s, I found it almost impossible to track aircraft over LA at night, even with powerful strobe lights. So do commercial pilots, which is why most large aircraft now light the tail of the plane in bright, white lights, AND open all the windows in the passenger compartment with the cabin lights on.


As the saddle bag mount is often 8-12" higher, it's at motorists eye level, doesn't require them to look down and back up to drive, mount #4 here - but zip-tie the clip shut so it can't fall off as it will get bounced around quite a bit back there. The PB Turbo's opaque body lights up all over when in Constant Mode, and because it's unobscured from the side by legs, motorist can see it when overtaking you too.

I have settled on the Planet Bike Superflash Turbo for both #3, and  #4 - which are mounted on the seatpost and saddlebag respectively. It has one primary, high-power LED emitter, with a high quality narrow-beam lens, two additional LEDs with a wider spread below, and an opaque body. The PB's flash pattern is simply spectacular. I really wish they'd patent it and then put it in the public domain. It would quickly become a standard that motorists would identify with cyclists.

It's counter-intuitive, but you need more powerful lighting in urban areas where there's much more lighting for motorists to contend with. Take note the next time you're out driving near dusk. It's almost overwhelming. More is more here.


I really thought I had my lighting down with this 4-light system - until I had a very close call with a SUV. He looked right over the top of me as I was making a L-hand turn from a busy 4-lane street with a protected turn lane, onto a 2 lane street with a protected L-hand turn and protected right hand turn lane leading into a bus stop lane. He almost ran right over me!

I had also read just a week before that motorists tend to lose sight of those narrow beams when overtaking cyclists, and have been running them over at the last moment. This led to some head-scratching, and eventually, the realization that a 5th light, one with 180 degrees of light, with a flash, should be mounted on the back (or top) of the helmet, facing backwards, but shining brightly to the sides, at motorists eye level, even if riding in high-profile vehicles.

As luck would have it, the Blackburn MARS 3.0 (and sadly, NOT the newer 4.0) satisfied all of these requirements with a staggering 7 LED lights, red to the back, and amber to the sides, and with a mount that puts it a full 3" behind the helmet, so it can easily be seen for almost 270 degrees. Paired with the front helmet light, this provides a full-height 360 degrees of coverage with white forward, amber to the sides, and red lights to the rear.

The only caveat is the Blackburn slip-in mounts are not compatible with Planet Bike's. Unforgivable they can't work that out. Those 3 rear lights should work as backups for each other in a pinch. We, as consumers, should write nasty-grams to both companies until this is resolved.

I would add only one thing to these 5 lights - neon green outer clothing with well-designed reflective piping. While REFLECTORS WILL ABSOLUTELY NOT KEEP YOU SAFE, piping really helps motorists Identify you as a cyclists. Neon green because when headlights, or fellow rider's lights hit you, you'll light up like a Christmas tree, and neon green because it's become the unofficial safety color of cycling. I think 100 of 100 motorists will tell you exactly that.

I'm careful to say "well planned", because I have seen some extensively piped clothing that makes you look like a monster from a bad SciFi movie, and while very distracting, still didn't silhouette the rider well. If I hadn't seen it myself I'd have said that's impossible, but it made it clear that slathering a bunch of reflective tape on your clothes isn't automatically going to make you easy to recognize.

I keep stressing fast identification as a cyclist because the driver, almost instantly, then knows what to expect from you and your bike. They know you aren't going to be blowing past them and changing lanes like a motorcycle (which have headlights, but not elevated, and never flashing red lights), and aren't going to take 20 seconds to cross the road like a ped, and aren't another car with a bad headlight.

Identifying you cuts their stress level in half immediately, and that makes them better decision makers, more level-headed, and grateful to you that you're meeting them half-way in trying to keep everyone safe and whole.

Case in point. After mounting light #5 I was flying down a shallow -3% grade, and got passed by a Quad-Cab dualie F-350 towing a BobCat on a 30ft  Low-Boy. He gave me the full 8ft of lane when passing, watched me in his huge West Coast rear-view mirrors for clearance as he pulled back in, and gave me a big "thumbs up" as he got back into the power and went flying down the road. Now THAT'S a great feeling!!!

PS: The helmet headlight causes a lot of neck strain for me, due mostly to craning my neck to point the light where I want it, so I have been riding without it, using my handlebar MagicShine in flashing mode near dusk on city streets to Grab motorists attention. It's passable, but not as good as having a few hundred lumens up on the helmet. Don't skimp on the other lights. It's just too dangerous.

Partially as compensation, I have ordered a small, single AAA-cell Fenix E05-R2 light I plan on wearing on the backside of my L glove to help with hand signaling, Garmin reading, and flat fixes after dark. Stay tuned for results.

PPS: I ended up Velcro-ing my Fenix E05 to the top-front of my helmet so that it lights my cockpit, and the road just ahead of my front wheel. At 27 lumens it's excellent for that, and to be seen by motorists near and after dark. The Fenix LD01's 1 hour (85 lumens),  3.5 hours (28 lumens), 11 hours (9 lumens) is the same size and weight, and it's output will get me  seen near dark, light the road as well as the 2W Planet Bike Blazer, and at 1/5th the weight, and 1/10th the size.

This 3-stage approach makes it very versatile, and with a spare AAA cell in the seat bag, and 2 potential spares in the PB SuperFlash Turbo, it will get me home even 4 hrs after dark on full brightness. I have decided to use it as my primary headlight in the summer, when I only occasionally get caught out after dark.
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